A 1970 Olds Cutlass S soon followed, accompanied by a bevy of other muscle cars as the years passed. The 1972 Chevy Vega GT was a roller that he transplanted a 350ci Olds V-8 into, matched to a 12-bolt rear, completed by the time he was 16. By the time he was 14 he dragged home his first project with cash he had earned while working at the local alignment shop. It was also a time when you couldn't pass a local gas station without seeing a straight axleinspired drag car parked outside the service bays since racing had gained such wide popularity. I'll take more fact feedback from anyone on what you think my next steps should be for more power.Growing up in an era fueled by the emergence of Hot Wheels, slot car tracks, and a steady stream of plastic kit models, including the Tom Danielsinspired Badman 1955 Chevy Gasser, it was easy to see the influences that led him down a high-performance path. I loved everyones feedback and opinions to help me reach these gains but there is a lot of opinon vs fact out there and you have to sift through it to reach your objective. The bike never loss any power from that point on and never dropped even a 1/4 hp all the way to redline We gained 8hp gain on the dyno coming in as early as 6200 rpm to the full 8 hp gain at 7500 - 11000. I made a few assumptions on the elliptical flare and was right, we didn't loose ANY power at the higher RPMS. Based on the design and the pre-determined max coefficient flow these made the most since. Schnitz racing volocity stacks - the blue aluminum 41mmm short stacks (79.5mm elliptical flare). Now I've been critized for making that comment ("on paper") but with a dregree in mathmatics thats what makes since to me and since I've built a 9 sec car based on that strategy I'll continue to do so. I don't make a change until it makes sense on paper. I've had my bike for 2 months and gained a total of 22 hp over the factory baseline dyno pull. I would buy them for show before I would by them for go on my bike. Most of this is why I figure it is not worth the expense on most street bikes and the stockers are just fine. If you are going to spend the money on them, do your homework (or better find a tuner that has already tried 10 sets and knows what works best) Max hp is not always the best option, sometimes giving up power at top end is better used in the mid range. We found that dumping the big 8 hole Enderle injectors in favor of a big tunnel ram with a bug catcher produced around 20hp less on the top end and cut almost 2 tenths off the ET on my hydro in the 1/4 (less power, faster boat) If you are building a strictly drag race motor, it gets a little more simple. If you are building a motor that needs to run through a wide band of rpms (say a cosworth on a road course) you could end up with different stacks on each cylinder. As most guys are just buying to make bigger dyno numbers, it gets a little easier. It takes gobs of dyno and track time to figure out the best combination on any given setup for a given riding style. Anything (and I mean anything) that affects air flow (exhaust, intake, cams, port work, cam timing, throttle bodies, air density, humidity) will make a difference when it comes to V-stacks. They do use them to tune runner lengths but there is A LOT of reliance on the parts put into the motor as well. sometimes equal length ports are wanted and other times not. try running all long/all shortĬlick to expand.sort of a tough question to answer. I would just leave the stock rubber ones on the motor (rubber will work as good as any billet or aluminum stack of the same length. Different cams, displacement, engine configs require different stack combinations to work at different rpm ranges.įor the most part for the street guy, it is a guessing game (and the gains are not all that great) I would be hard pressed to blow $200+ to get 1 or 3 hp. the hitch is that they must be "tuned" to the motor. Long stacks are used for lower rpm and short stacks work better at higher rpms. The idea is to have the small "positive" air pressure sitting on top of the throttle body or intake valve when it opens. During the "pulse" a sensitive sensor will show the frequency of these pulses. as air travels down the stack it is not a steady flow, it actually "pulses" in effect. They are designed to create a "ram air" effect in operation. You need to understand how a velocity stack works to decide what you want for lengths.
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